24 September 2009

I heard this song playing in the grocery store YESTERDAY MORNING



PLEASE watch the back up dancers. Especially my favorite--
the girl on the right in the front.



And I woke up STILL SINGING it this morning. Spending the majority of my day by myself, doing stressful/annoying/necessary things, I translated it into French unconsciously. This is not supposed to be impressive, because I couldn't translate it right, and the words didn't quite fit, so I started using words that did fit and they didn't make sense so I was SO annoyed with myself. And this dumb song won't leave me alone.


Also, I had a dream for probably the dozenth time in my life where I am Harry Potter and I am fighting Lord Voldemort.



sort of a combination, per say, of these two scenes...



This particular time, I was wading through hot lava that actually wasn't hot, and Lord Voldemort attacked me with a sword, so quickly I pulled out the sword of Gryffindor from underneath the lava and started to fight back, and he said "you will never get into the vault!" and I remembered that there was a dragon I needed to fight, and I told Voldemort to hold off, and that I wasn't attacking him, and he shouldn't fight me just now. He thought about it, and decided he would let me try to defeat the dragon, but that did NOT mean I would win any treasure. So then I got out of the lava pit, and was walking with a faceless friend, following Lord Voldemort, and all of the sudden I couldn't understand how this would end, and all of the sudden I couldn't remember what happened in the 7th book at all, even though I remembered that I read it. I was excited to find out how it ended though, because I remembered that Harry was still alive by the end, so there was no need to be scared. Then Cami came into my room and woke me up, so I never found out what happened. But when I went back to sleep, I oriented my body into a better position for flying, because that's what I was doing. I am such a dork.

23 September 2009

I wrote this last week. Still true,

except for the not having been to the Louvre yet part. More on that later...

I have been in Paris for a week now
. Just a week. And I haven’t been in the Louvre, or the Musée D’Orsay, or the Musée Rodin, or the Saint Chappelle. Instead I am walking. Walking along the Seine with my roommate, but I can’t talk to her. I have cramps and all I can think about is getting back to our apartment and having some tea and sitting on my bed and checking various things on the internet for an absurd amount of time. We know there is a metro stop somewhere around here, but neither of us knows exactly where, so we walk to the next closest stop, Hôtel de Ville. The same stop we use everyday.


The cars are honking as usual, and some places on the side walks smell like urine, and I am constantly avoiding French people who wouldn’t change their sidewalk course if--well, they just never would. But the dirty Seine flows next to me, and a riverboat tour is passing, and I can see the white towers of the Notre Dame through a gap in buildings. I see past Notre Dame, and farther up the Seine to L’Ile de St. Louis, and they are all hazy and beautiful, and I freeze that in my mind for the hundredth time and put a Paris label on it.


My stomach reminds me that I am in pain, and I focus again on getting to the metro. Everything feels normal already after only a week. It is normal to look at a metro map to figure out how to get to school, to go shopping, to go to a museum, to go home. Yesterday I went running with Ericka Sohlberg, my best friend from high school. She goes to school in California. A thousand miles away from me in Utah, but we went running yesterday, and talked about the new gym she joined, and I told her about my art history teacher. That isn't normal at all. But we're both in Paris, in some alternate life. And the way my bedroom has windows that open inward and I can lean out on the iron railing. That's normal. A mix of books and papers and old teacups and notebooks and journals and some pens litter my desk, because I live here. I live here.



It’s just, this isn’t normal. It's not, but it is. Last fall, when I was dying to be in Paris, if I were here, and knew I was only here for a day, I wonder if I would still want to go back and have that cup of tea, or would I want to go to the Notre Dame, or somewhere else? Why am I not doing that now? I don’t know, I guess I could, I tell myself. Maybe I should go to the Musée D’Orsay right now. But I don’t.


It’s like how sometimes I wonder why I don’t eat ice cream all the time. Or only chocolate or kinder buenos. If I say I love ice cream, why am I not having it at every hour of my life? And this is totally beside the point that I would inflate like Aunt Marge. It just wouldn’t taste that good anymore. Why does having one thing, even if it’s absolutely wonderful, having it too much, make it not that good anymore? When I was in Rome in June, I ate gelato almost everyday, or twice a day, and I was so done with gelato when I went on a family trip a few weeks later and they were always wanting gelato. I have always loved gelato, but I was done, I didn’t want it anymore. I don’t understand why something I loved or still love, I can’t eat all of the time and still love it. I’m sure people will tell me when they read this that they could eat gelato every hour of their life and still be totally in love with it. So, good. I guess I’m not a real gelato lover.


If I only did my “favorite things” all of the time, I would constantly be eating kinder buenos, cookies and cream ice cream, be shopping at anthropologie, listening to Harry Potter, playing guitar, and talking to a bunch of people that I love. But for some reason, the only thing that really seems appealing from that list is talking to a bunch of people. Maybe I’m lonely right now. Or maybe I’ve had the best crepe of my life three days in a row and so I don’t want food right now. I just don’t really know why I’m not doing my favorite things all of the time. Why is it that I get sick of going on my favorite run everyday? Why would I stop enjoying the scent of dense leaves and damp trail and the up hills that make me stronger and the down hills that make me feel awesome? Why does doing things less often make me love them more when I do do them? Why would Paris be absolutely normal if I just lived here my whole life? It’s the same place, it has all of the same things. Why is something staying new, or rare, like a luxury, make it so I can’t have my favorite things all of the time or else they’re not my favorite anymore? Or does it mean that my real real favorites include sleeping, washing myself, and having clean teeth? Why don’t I do only things that I love to do? Why do I get sick of things I love doing? I obviously don’t love them then, right? Why is it that I never get sick of petting my dog, and playing with her, never get tired of the way her ears flop up and down as she trots in front of me? Why do I never get sick of lying down and going to sleep? Why am I so spoiled that it isn’t my favorite things I demand at all times, but even more than that—new things, and old things, new food and a new place to live and new information and more and more and more. I can’t understand why I am not satisfied with favorites. I can’t understand why I’ve been in Paris for a week and it feels normal. I don’t understand why I have to adjust and make things normal to be able to function. Why can't everything feel like a treat, a special treat all the time? If I were dropped at any point of my life, into this instant, I would be so happy and excited that I would literally have a smile nailed to my face and go running across the bridge to the Notre Dame. Why am I not doing that now? Why am I content to just go home, and sit on my cute, French bed. Why do I have to adjust? Why is it okay that I step outside of my room and see a petite, old woman who cooks me French dinners? Why do I not think that it is abnormal for me to walk down the hall, doing my best not to creak on the uneven wooden floors, to know that she has a gorgeous grand piano that’s light brown and that at this moment I could be sticking my head out the window looking at the monument to the Bastille, or the skeletons of the booths that appear there for market on Sundays and Thursdays. Instead, I am cleaning my room, which is absolutely terrible. And I don’t understand any of this at all.



22 September 2009

Madame Des Mazarey

The key to Mme Des Mazarey's apartment has six prongs on it; the door is blue, and in the center of the door, the round, silver handle. The stairwell smells like old books and dusty carpets and peeling wallpaper. Just like the rest of the furniture in the apartment, the wooden floor is old, and it squeaks every time I walk, and it squeaked consistently that one time when I tried to do an ab workout on the floor next to my bed.

The first night we ate dinner with her was a disaster, but since then it has gotten better. Last night she told us about how her son's french chairs with wide seats and skinny arms need to be reupholstered, and that it is difficult to find fabric that will look good. Oh, yes, difficult. I said.

Her living room has a yellow couch, and a light brown beautiful grand piano, and blue and white porcelain near the old fireplace and her hallway has a shelf full of old, beautiful leather-bound books. Later I told her that I went to Versailles. Very beautiful. We rode bikes. Yes, very pretty. Versailles is so pretty. Yes, just in the garden. Too expensive for the chateau. She told us she would do our laundry. I said, you will do it? thank you, where should we put our clothes? And she told us.

There are some pretty good spans of time where I look at Cami, and back at my food, and at Madame, and none of us say anything. Madame looks over the table with concerned eyes to make sure that both of us are enjoying our food, and if we are running low, she continually asks to replace it. No thank you, is all we say, and we smile and give awkward trying-to-be-polite laughs. I remember when she gave us our keys to the apartment, and the code to the building. "Here is your key to your house," she said. Here is a key to everything I own, and you will be living in my house and sleeping in my house, and I will cook for you three times a week, and dinner is at eight. Merci, Madame I answered. And I tried to squeeze every bit of gratitude I could into those two words.

Yes! Thank you! It's delicious. Thank you! Yes! Very beautiful. That's too bad. Yes, it works. Very good. That's good. Yes! Very pretty. Good weather. That's good. That's very funny. We had macaroons. Thank you so much! Thank you! Thank you! Thanks! Yes. Yes, yes, yes, yes thank you, yes.

Last week, during one of those great pauses, Cami turned to me and asked how to ask if Madame wanted to go on a walk with us after dinner. I told her, and she repeated it to Madame, who responded saying, "oh, you are going for a walk tonight?" and I said, do you want to come with us? And her eyes lit up behind her gracefully sagging skin and the bags under her eyes, and she rubbed her face, considering if she could come, and told us it is much more fun to go out and see Paris in the car, and she called her friend and the next night her friend came over for dinner, and also her daughter, Claude. Cami and I were so happy that we only had to say a few things to be polite. Claude was kind but brisk, and helped out in English when our lack of french deterred the flow of conversation. And I listened as Claude and Madame's friend shifted from talking of the differing times between train stations, and swine flu. They talked over each other, and at the same time, like they were playing a duet, instead of having a conversation. And Madame sat between them, hardly entering the conversation, but she held out food for her friend, and for Claude, and she made sure we each had enough to eat, and she got more plates for everyone for fruit, and she crouched under the other french women's arms and conversation to make sure that we had enough salad. And I finally realized something. Madame Des Mazarey is quiet. She lives alone, and talks to herself while she's cooking, and she invites college girls to stay at her apartment every semester, and we struggle to converse, like we're wading through wet concrete, but she still asked us to put our laundry outside of our doors tonight, so that she doesn't wake us tomorrow when she plans to wash our dirty clothes. I liked it when she took us on a ride through Paris at night. She called her friend because her friend did most of the talking, because Madame is not a tour-guide type, and she knows that, and so she asked her friend. And tonight she showed us the fabric she picked out for her son's chairs to be reupholstered, and it was classic, and french, and linen and cotton, and she said "it suits a man's apartment, doesn't it?" and I agreed. It was perfectly beautiful for a single man living alone, like her son Pascal. I imagined her going today by the Montmartre to pick it out, and going to the boulangerie around the corner where I bought bread yesterday, and she bought the bread for dinner tonight. And I thought of how she prepares dinner by herself in the kitchen, talking to herself, and banging pots and pans, and that she will be doing all of my laundry tomorrow, and that she wades through my terrible french with me everyday. And I say, "merci beaucoup, Madame," because that's all I can say, and she says, "il n'y a pas de quoi." It's nothing.

21 September 2009

I want to be her:



Saturday and yesterday, a bunch of museums were free, including the Cluny Museum of the Middle Ages, where these six tapestries are displayed. I sat in that dark room looking at them for about an hour yesterday.

Then I caught up with my trying-to-be-artsy journal:

The front/binding that I bought in Scotland for a few pounds. Made an alternate title, which I admit is kind of tacky, but I actually really like it, and I found those letters in my mom's crafting area, and
Mason Jennings says it in one of my favorite songs of his. Anyway...




Title page: Before I left, I spent a long time prepainting all of these pages so that I could just pull them out, glue stuff to them, and glue them into the book I bought. I mixed acrylic paints with glaze, painted on to the page that was prepared with some gesso, and then wiped some of the paint off with a paper towel to texturize the page. (I didn't make up how to do this.)



The day I got to Paris--totally jetlagged, but we did a river tour:



My favorite page so far:



After last night's outing:



Ladurée is apparantly some ultra-uppity pastry place that has beautiful pastries and beautiful boxes and bags for the pastries. We got macaroons there. I got a rose petal macaroon and a blackcurrant/violet macaroon. Both miniature. Cami got a coconut one and an orange one and we shared all of them. Cami decided she wants to have macaroons at her wedding. We're trying to figure out how we could possibly get them shipped from here.

Just bought those block-letter stamps last week...yep, glad that's what I'm spending my money on here. At least Cami had a good laugh. That time, and every time I use my glue stick.

19 September 2009

for those of you who ever made fun of the way I parallel park...



tell it to the parisian woman i just saw from my appartment window give the audi behind her three love taps whilst parking. and the man who got out of the spot before her was so close that he had to do about a twelve point turn to get out.

17 September 2009

Dear Future Husband,



I hope you don't mind that I bought these dish towels for our future home. Don't worry, all six of them only costed 5 euros. I think they will look great hanging on the cute hooks that I will buy soon to match. Also, I almost bought a round table cloth with a Provence pattern on it, but I realized that I should probably not get married with a big fat zero in my bank account. On the other hand, maybe now is the time to really invest in our future home, right? I hope you like french decor!

P.S. If you ever think something I buy seems a little, you know, dramatic, or you come across an album full of a blond girl taking pictures:


Cami is my roommate, takes really good pictures, hate her, and helps me pick things out for our future home. And eats beautiful, good food... Yesterday, she almost bought a silky gold suit thing with a saggy crotch.


P.P.S. These are the children who I took about thirty pictures of at Luxembourg Palace today, because I hardly ever see children. That is the mother who I am sure got totally weirded out. Aren't they adorable though?



P.P.P.S. Megan, my mom and I were SO on with the whole Paris theme at your wedding=yellow dahlias. Look what I found in front of Luxembourg Palace:


16 September 2009



This was the final choice (ps click on it to get the whole view). Katie is the only one who won! Good job Katie. And Lauren, I wish this one would have had the puff of smoke, but alas. It did not. And this is the one that fitted what I wanted to write about more. And Cami (ultimate authority) said she liked this one the best. Here is the photo and essay I wrote about it...we'll see if I followed the assignment. Don't make fun of me trying to be artsy and photography-ish and everything.

If I had it my way, I would give you more pictures to put this one in context. But I will do it with words. While walking on the Champs Élysée, I saw a whole line of former soldiers holding English flags and French flags. They were waiting to march up to L'Arc de Triomphe. As I took pictures, I noticed the three men in the left side of the picture, who were relaxed, and simply talking to one another as if they were strolling in their native English countryside. As I looked closer at them, each had medals hanging on their coats. I imagined the heroic acts they had performed in battle, bringing Lady Liberty to victory, just as the relief on L'Arc de Triomphe on the top right. But unlike those timeless soldiers, frozen forever in stone, I was looking at living, breathing soldiers. Old soldiers, yes, but soldiers who were alive. I think sometimes we tend to believe that being a hero, living so that you are remembered forever, so you are immortally more beautiful and perhaps more courageous than you ever were, is the ultimate way to be remembered. I think sometimes we get caught up in trying to be famous, trying to leave our mark on the world; that mark then becomes who we are, our identity. Soldiers, politicians, poets, writers, musicians become something so amazing that we place them above being a human. Instead they are beautifully manipulated stone. It is even more wonderful and beautiful to realize that the people who are heroes and geniuses, who have done all of these great things, really are men and women. The men in this photo have worn faces and crinkly eyes, and the man with a pipe has a cane on his left arm. They are really living and breathing, and worthy, I'm sure, of the honors they receive, because they are the ones who performed those deeds in the past. Not stagnant marble. And now, they stand and are balding, and like to smoke pipes, and find it strange that a twenty year-old girl is taking pictures of them.

I also like the way the bus was stopped as I took this picture, and the ad reinforces this idea of eternally frozen, versus real life. The different ways all of the men in this picture are looking also helps to keep the viewers eye moving. This is the type of picture that the more I look at it, the more I like it, trying to catch something in each of the three pairs of eyes looking toward my camera. The man half cut-off on the left also makes the viewer feel as if they are right on the Champs-Élysée, a part of the crowd, and also peaking into each of the groups of people.